A Trip to Spain

Before I get going on this post, if you don’t know of, or much about, the Camino de Santiago, I’m going to refer you to this, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camino_de_Santiago – it explains what the Camino is, and why people make this walk, much better than I can.

For many years I have had the thought that I would like to walk part (honestly, no desire to walk all – all being from Mont St Michel in France, to me at least) of the Camino. Not necessarily from a faith based reason, more just because it sounds like an amazing thing to do. As with most things, it’s the history that fascinates me. So, when the Husband mentioned that Santiago de Compostela was only a 2.5 hour drive from Porto I got rather excited. No, it wasn’t walking, but to actually go to Santiago – well, that’s pretty cool! Plus, it was finally getting to go to Spain. Another country checked on the Places Been app!! Another UNESCO site checked off!

Off we went, in our rented Fiat 500. First stop Guimaraes, Portugal. Why? It had a castle, of course. Not just any castle though. In 1128 this castle was integral to the establishment of Portugal as an independent country. And, as European travelers have come to expect from historical landmarks, the castle was undergoing extensive restoration. Sigh. We only had a couple of hours to spend in Guimaraes, which was really too bad as it is a beautiful little town.

Guimaraes Castle. The interior is almost completely inaccessible due to the restoration works.

We continued our journey north into the Galicia region of Spain. One of the cities we drove through, Vigo, looks amazing! We noted this as a possible future stop. It is located on a – for lack of a better word, fjord – and is absolutely beautiful. I’m not certain exactly what I expected Spain to look like, but we were pleasantly surprised by the beautiful countryside. As we came into Santiago we could see the cathedral looming above everything else – what a sight it was! Naturally, the medieval part of town was absolutely crawling with pilgrims who had completed their Camino, as well as other tourists.

The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. One very impressive building!

The cathedral was very beautiful, and rather unique. The exterior that you see is from the 15th century, built to protect the incredible 11th century portico that is preserved inside. I wish we could have taken photos of that portico – stunningly beautiful. There has been a church on this site since the 800s, when Santiago was declared a pilgrimage site. The amount of preservation of the very old (800-1100s) inside that structure made me very happy. Again, no photos allowed! Sigh. We did get to do an amazing tour…I’ll get to that in a sec. Back to the people who have walked the Camino – some who have walked for a month or more – seeing the faces of those arriving in the plaza in front of the cathedral, the sound of bag pipes welcoming them (Galicia is Celtic – did you know that?), the sense of joy and elation – we couldn’t help but smile (as we frantically raced to our tour appointment).

This is one of my favorite pictures – people who have completed their Camino taking a moment to just soak in the joy of their achievement
We attended a wonderful late evening, chamber music performance in the cathedral. I very much enjoyed the fact that only the altar area was heavily baroque. The rest of the structure very much followed the Romanesque design of its 12th century construction.
Santiago is lovely during the day. At night, it is magical.

I love finding unique things to do in the cities that we visit. The activities often involve climbing a tower. One (Duomo in Florence) involved walking around the edge of the roof – very cool. I don’t think I will ever find an activity to top (hahaha) what we did in Santiago…we walked ON the roof of the cathedral. Not just around the edges, but up and over the top. It was amazing and somewhat terrifying! I am not normally bothered by heights, but I am a bit of a klutz, so I didn’t wander around too much – I just stood at the very top and took it in. The Husband was all over the place – but, he is half mountain goat.

Take a look at the night photo of the cathedral – see the structure at the back? Yeah, that is what this photo is looking towards. Like, really ON TOP of the cathedral. And this is not some little building. Impressive indeed!
This photo was taken while standing a little lower on the roof, but looking in a similar direction. We did walk all around that tower to the right. The tower to the left is over the main altar.

Before I move on to day two of the trip, there are a couple of bits that I should share. One: the Fiat we started our trip with is not the Fiat we ended our trip with. When we got into the car Monday morning to head back to Porto we were greeted with an assortment of dash lights being on.

Well, pfffffft

When we first arrived in Santiago we weren’t certain where our hotel would want us to park, so we headed for a lot right near the hotel. There was a young man directing people to available parking slots. He took one look at our little Fiat 500 and directed us to a spot – the Husband said no way was he going to be able to park there! Between me and the young man guiding him he did it!! Without hitting either vehicle in front or behind!! He says never again.

So, yeah, mega accomplishment!

Day two of the trip was a tour of the coast of Galicia, part of which is called the Costa da Morte, or Coast of Death. Crazy, treacherously beautiful coastline! I can honestly say that this was the first, and last, big bus tour we intend to take. Van tours, yes. Small groups, yep. But not a big bus again. Certain people, ahem, deal with motion sickness.

You know, the funny thing is, we saw some really beautiful places on that tour. Most were nature focused, as one would expect from a tour of a coast, but I think my favorite place we went was to see a little bridge.

Some walkers of the Camino choose to continue walking to Finisterre (or Fisterra in Spanish), land’s end. This is where the ancient Romans believed that the sun descended into the ocean.
A bronze boot attached to the rock signifies the very end of the journey. The platform with the burned area on it…is for burning things. Some pilgrims choose to burn an article of clothing or a possession upon reaching this point.
The final marker sign
The crazy treacherous coastline
Reputedly the deadliest stretch of coastline for ships in the world
This is a horrea. This particular one is huge, far larger than the normal ones, as this was built by a village church for community use rather than individual family use. These have been used for centuries (this one was built in the 1700s) to store grains, fruit and veg. It is elevated to keep critters out and vented to allow airflow without dampness inside.
Peaceful, beautiful river in a delightful village…
…and my favorite bridge over that river. Medieval upper structure on an ancient Roman base. Swoon.