I’ll get to explaining the title in a bit. Don’t rush me.
It’s really hard to believe that our time on Malta is nearing its end. Next weekend we make the big move to Gozo (the smaller, quieter island of the Maltese archipelago). Before we left there were a couple of places out near Mdina that I still wanted to get to – so, shucky darns, we could spend another weekend there. Tragic, that.
The first stop was a totally touristy thing, although if I lived here I think I would still go there – Ta’ Qali Craft Village. It’s in an old British RAF airfield out near Attard, so about the center of the island. The original shops were in the Quonset huts from the time of WWII. They are looking a bit ratty these days, so new buildings are being done now. The craftspeople are making the items they sell right there in the shops. It’s a really wonderful place and it feels good to buy from the artisans.
On the way to the craft village I noticed that we were obviously in the area where the majority of the embassy buildings were – this made me curious where the US embassy was. Should have realized that it would be the biggest, most ostentatious compound (not just a building). Sigh.
I really kicked myself after we left because I had a great idea to include here in the blog…Maltese silver filigree. I watched a craftsman working the fine silver thread into beautiful designs. I could have taken photos of that. Yeah, sorry. I get upset with the Husband when he misses photo opportunities and then I’m oblivious to them. Ugh. While a vast number of the shops were not open due to the lack of tourists there were a few and we thoroughly enjoyed them!
However, I did not enjoy carrying my weekend stuff in my backpack! So, as soon as we were done at the craft village we headed to Rabat to our place for the weekend. Last time there we stayed at the Quaint Boutique Hotel (yep, its name), this time we had the top floor room at the Maleth Inn. Smart choice! It was very spacious and had a terrace with a fantastic view.
Our next destination was to Mosta, to finally see the Mosta Rotunda, or Mosta Dome. This extremely impressive church was built in the 1830s and was patterned after the Pantheon in Rome, thus it is round. One of the more intriguing facts about the Mosta Dome – it was built around the existing church! You could go to mass in the old church, surrounded by the new church! Not that anywhere would allow that these days. And once the new church was completed the old church was dismantled in a week. Impressive feats.
The church itself is beautiful and is one that inspires peace. We elected to make the climb up to the inner edge of the Dome (not unlike, I would imagine, the Duomo in Florence. Which I would know about if we had been able to go to Florence last spring 😕). Quite the hike, but so worth it!!
This church is beautiful and peaceful. It is also the site of an amazing miracle (or, if you prefer, some really spectacular luck). On 9 April 1942, many people were in the church for mass when four bombs hit the church. Three of the bombs hit minor areas with little damage. The fourth bomb came through the dome.
No one was injured or killed inside the church. I’m guessing that after they picked their jaws up off the ground they headed for the bomb shelter just outside the church. Not sure if I mentioned this fact in any other posts, and if I did it bears repeating, Malta was the most bombed placed during WWII. More than London. More than Berlin. Sobering to think of. Now you understand the title of the blog.
After touring the church sustenance was needed, and there across from the church was The Cake Box. Hello. My sugar addiction reared its ugly head. Cake for lunch was an excellent idea! Yummy. We really liked the vibe of the place too. Any where that has swings at some of the tables is a place I can like!
I have to confess, part of why we stayed in Rabat again was so that we could return to what may be our favorite restaurant of all time. We stumbled on to it the first time we were in Rabat, did not have a reservation (or, should I say booking?) and the fabulous server found room for us. The place is called Townhouse No. 3, and if you are in Malta do yourself a favor and go here! The menu is not large, but every item is fresh and beautifully prepared. The gnocchi with cream and leeks is our favorite starter. I refrained from licking the dish – but only just. We have had different mains and they have all been outstanding, but…the chocolate fondant cake is knee shaking, head spinningly delicious. The Husband enjoyed a glass of 1966 ruby port while I was rapturous over the cake. The first time we had it we shared. The second time I did not share. Mine. All mine.
Yeah, I know, crazy that we planned a weekend around going to a specific restaurant!
We also had the opportunity to tour Palazzo Falson in Mdina. The Palazzo is from the late 1400s, later purchased by Olof Gollcher. He was Maltese born of Swedish parents and made his fortune in shipping. The palazzo is now a museum containing many of the wonderful items he collected in his lifetime. He had a voracious appetite for learning and collecting items of many types. There are suits of armor, paintings, cooking implements, jewelry, and many other household items.
One of the most astounding items in the house is a French 10 hour clock. Apparently during the French Revolution, some genius decided to change the way time was told. Ten hour days, 100 minute hours. Yeah. Obviously this did not catch on. There are only three of the clocks known to be in existence.
We were very grateful to have another opportunity to go to Rabat and Mdina. Grateful to go to Townhouse No. 3 again, grateful to have some of the best gelato ever again, grateful to be able to walk the streets and revel in this beautiful place.
