Valletta

Last weekend falls into the category of EPIC🤩 Seriously. We spent it in Valletta – finally taking the opportunity to really walk the streets, see a few of the sites we hadn’t been to yet, and just take it all in. It’s such a beautiful place. It’s very small too, which makes it easy to explore! It’s not even a full kilometer long and think the population is around 6,000 people.

I put a lot of thought into where we stay when we go on these weekend trips. I try to find somewhere historic, or just really interesting in some way. Sometimes I want a little luxury. Sometimes I find a place that encompasses all of those and then some. In the course of preparing to come to Malta I read several guide books and most of them mentioned that touring Casa Rocca Piccola was on the must do list. It sounded interesting so I filed it away under things to do. But one of the books mentioned that they had guest rooms. Okay, now I’m pretty interested😁 One look at their website (www.casaroccapiccola.com) and I knew this was the place we HAD to stay! It did not disappoint. In fact it met and surpassed all of our expectations.

The Casa is owned by the de Piro family. They came to Malta in 1530 with the Knights of St John. Yeah, I think it’s pretty amazing to have such detail on your ancestors. And they don’t just have details, they have documents and possessions that date back to the 1500s. Incredible.

The B & B part of the Casa is five gorgeous rooms. We suspected that we were in for a treat when we were asked what firmness we wished our mattress to be. Fabulous! We were in the Clock Room, with a lovely balcony on the front of the house. The bed was something out of a dream – I never wanted to get up! Of course then I would have missed out on Amelia’s wonderful breakfast. I shall dream of that orange cake. The attention to detail, the service, the feeling of being somewhere unique and wonderful – all in all a wonderful place to stay!

Okay, so we did ask for some extra pillows…but, oh my! I really should have taken this photo before I laid down on the bed. I couldn’t resist though!
So beautiful
The breakfast room. The first day it was warm enough to sit outside for our breakfast. Second day was quite a bit cooler. The Husband was so excited that he could get real espresso!

After we were settled, Clement de Piro, son of the Marquis de Piro, took us on a tour of the house. Me, being me, asked him what the oldest item in the house was. His response was this chest:

The chest came with the de Piro family from Rhodes in 1530. Which means it’s older than that. Best part is that I got to touch it! Yes, I asked permission first. And this was just the beginning of our tour. It is obvious that Clement loves this house. It’s been in his family a long time and is filled with their history. What a gift.

This is traveling altar. I know, I hadn’t ever heard of one either! Noble families in particular almost always had a priest among the family members. With the traveling altar (The top and bottom can separate) mass could be said anywhere.
A photo of a photo of the altar opened
The family chapel inside the house. This room was filled with a dazzling array of family artefacts!
Papal slippers. These were often given by various popes as tokens of favor. These date from way back.
Invitation to Queen Elizabeth’s coronation
Invitation to the coronation of King George VI (the current Queen’s father)
Look at the gorgeous chairs! Note the tile work on the floor. That’s a very Maltese thing.
The gorgeous courtyard
View of the courtyard from the other direction. This one includes Kiku the 3rd! He is very personable.
Underneath the house an old water cistern was converted into a bomb shelter during WWII. There were tunnels leading to it from other streets too. All were welcome to use this shelter.
My heart did a happy dance when I saw this one! 1949 Bentley Mark VI. Absolutely gorgeous😁
A flying B. I managed to not drool on it.

I am so grateful that we had the opportunity to stay at the Casa Rocca Piccola💕 and I can’t recommend it enough! No, they didn’t give me anything to say that. Really, honestly, truly, this is an incredible place. What a memory.

Now, we did see some other places while we were in Valletta. We also had a couple of memorable meals! And drank an awful lot of wine. Or a goodly amount of wine. Depends on how you look at it I guess.

The items on my list were the archeological museum, Fort St Elmo and St Paul’s Shipwreck Church. The Husband wanted to go to the Palace Armoury. Saturday and Sunday were gorgeous days, without being overly warm – perfect for being tourists! The archeological museum was the first one we went to.

These are Phoenician cremation urns. The little clear box contains what was inside one of them.
The entry hall for the museum. The building was originally the Auberge (house) de Provence – one of the Knights houses.
Phoenician glass
Phoenician sarcophagus
The very famous Sleeping Lady. This was found at the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum that we visited a few weeks ago.

After our time at the museum we wandered about town. Valletta is so compact, it doesn’t take long to get anywhere. It is built on top of a rock though, so there are some pretty steep hills. Defensible position, you know?

Found this narrow street with beautiful glass lamp shades hanging over it
The elevator from the harbor level up to the city. Modern conveniences can certainly be nice!
Approaching Valletta on the 3 Cities ferry. You can see the elevator shaft from here too.
Even the Valletta police station is in a 17th century palazzo!
Sette Giugno Monument in St George’s Square. This commemorates when British troops fired on an angry, hungry crowd in the aftermath of WWI.
Our Lady of Victory Chapel. This was the first church built in Valletta before anything else had been built. Grand Master de Vallette ordered its construction. It was quite damaged in WWII bombings. I really wanted to go in here but we could never find its doors unlocked😥
Beautifully lit Maltese balconies

The next day was also planned out. First thing in the morning, after our wonderful breakfast at Casa Rocco Piccola, We walked up to the Grandmaster (of Knights of St John)’s Palace. Unfortunately most of the palace is undergoing restoration. But the Armoury was open, and this is what the Husband wanted to see. Can you imagine wearing any of this in the heat of the summer???????????

Centuries worth of armour. Astounding!
So these are really old helmets. But the two at the back on the right look like C3PO.
Grandmaster Jean de Vallette’s armour. He wore this while fighting off the Ottoman Army. That was 1565.
German helmets from the early 1500s.
The armour of Grandmaster Alof de Wignacourt
His horse even had matching armour!

After the Armoury we walked down to Fort St Elmo. In the late 1400s the Aragonese (later part of Spain) erected a watchtower out at the point of what would later become Valletta. When the Knights of St John arrived in 1530 they dramatically added to it. Which was a good thing as Fort St Elmo played a major part in the defense of Malta!

Look how worn these steps are. I think of the centuries of men who climbed up them.
The main gate into Fort St Elmo with an Eye of Osiris. My brother gave me a carving of this that hung on my kitchen wall for years.
St George’s Cross. Awarded to the nation of Malta by King George VI for incredible bravery and fierce defense during WWII. This country is rightly very proud of this honor.

Monday morning we had one final place to stop. While I was never able to get into the Victory chapel, I was hopeful that the doors to St Paul’s Shipwreck Church would be open – Finally. And they were!! And it was worth the wait and numerous hikes down and back up that hill! The church was built in the late 1570s, with substantial renovations in 1639 (probably due to the big earthquake that struck Malta in 1638). It’s beautiful. It’s not stylishly fancy, or even a cohesive design, but that’s okay. It reflects centuries of people that have come through there. It also has a couple of seriously important and impressive relics. Malta being the island that St Paul shipwrecked on means that there is a close tie between the two. It is lost to history how the church came to be in possession of it, but they have a piece of St Paul’s right wrist bone.

It is well protected of course. Inside the glass what you mostly see are papal seals from over several centuries
A view through several side chapels
This is purported to be a portion of the pillar on which St Paul was beheaded. See the below image for the explanation of how it came to be here!

Wow. I was so glad we were finally able to get inside this church. I have dozens of photos of it, but I figured this post was long enough! We have one more weekend excursion planned before we have to begin making our preparations for moving to Gozo!

2 Replies to “Valletta”

  1. Beautiful photos and wonderful review of the history of the places you show! Good job bfff!

  2. Thank you so much for writing about us at Casa Rocca Piccola. It was a pleasure having you to stay and when reading your blog I learnt a thing or 2 about Malta too.

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